While mass-produced wines excel in accessibility and easy drinking, natural wines have won hearts with their unique character, authenticity and the notion that one is consuming something simpler, made in a traditional way without too much interference from modern technology.
It is difficult to pinpoint the origin of the natural wine movement.
Some say it began in the 1950s, in France’s Beaujolais region, where a group of winemakers found inspiration in the work and writings of Jules Chauvet, a French winemaking teacher, chemist and oenologist (one who studies wine and winemaking), who sought ways to make wine with fewer additives.
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And before that, towards the end of the 19th century, Georgian poet Ilia Chavchavadze wrote: “The true purpose of winemaking, its beginning and end, is to make wine naturally, following the process by which nature itself transforms grape juice into wine.”
It is akin to the everlasting battles between acoustic and electric, analogue and digital – those who get it, get it.
However, as alluring as it may sound, the definition of natural wine is rather murky.nterpretations.
“There’s no firm definition of naturalness – I think the best way of thinking about it is that all wine exists on a spectrum,” says Brett Goss, co-founder of Yatbui, a Hong Kong-based online wine boutique and wine event organiser.
“Supermarket, mass-produced wine will be at one end of the spectrum, and at the other end is completely natural wine [which is unadulterated fermented grape juice].”
“Another pillar of the philosophy is the idea of a minimal interference by technology,” Goss says.
Many commercial winemakers employ industrial techniques to varying extents during the fermentation and clarification processes, manipulating their product and artificially improving the quality of their wine.
“Natural winemakers try to minimise any interference using high technology and just stick to the basics, such as a de-stemmer, crusher and hydraulic press,” says Goss.
Yatbui, which promotes “free-spirited drinking”, does not exclusively sell natural wine, though about 75 per cent of its stock is organic wine, with most of that being on the natural wine spectrum.
“Globally, we’ve seen a trend shifting away from those really big, heavy styles of wine and into styles that are fresher, brighter and more fun,” says Goss.
“The ethos of natural wine resonates with young people. It’s a bit more fun and free, and it’s a more relaxed approach to wine rather than taking everything very seriously. People are tired of drinking things that are over-manipulated and overworked.”
And if that sounds like your cup of tea – or rather, glass of natty wine – read on for our picks of the seven best places in Hong Kong to enjoy a glass or two of the stuff.
1. La Cabane Wine Bistro
Since the establishment of its wine cellar, in 2010, on Central’s Shin Hing Street, La Cabane has been Hong Kong’s go-to place for natural, low-intervention, organic and biodynamic wines. It began with mostly French wines, but the selection has since expanded to include New World wines, particularly those from the southern hemisphere.
Aside from the wine bistro just a stone’s throw from the cellar, La Cabane is also responsible for the wine options at BaseHall 01 and 02 in Central’s Jardine House. It recently introduced New Zealand wines in kegs (like a beer keg) to BaseHall 01, whereas BaseHall 02 serves more French, South African and Australian wines.62 Hollywood Road, Central.
2. Terroirs by LQV
Founded in Paris in 2010, LQV has been one of Hong Kong’s more prominent wine bars since its expansion to the city in 2014. To date, LQV has five establishments in the city, including wine shops, wine bars and restaurants. Its latest concept is Terroirs by LQV.“In our wine shops and wine bars, we offer a selection of over 1,500 labels. Ninety-nine per cent of those are French and most are purchased directly from the [winemakers],” says Hugues Rondouin, director of LQV, who adds that more than 80 per cent of its stock is organic and “around 30 per cent is natural or very close to natural”.
3/F, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central.
3. ThinkWine
ThinkWine – as the name suggests – prides itself on being thoughtful with its selection of hand-picked wines. From snacking on French cheese to masterclasses and private dining, it offers a variety of wine-centric, curated experiences.
“We mainly focus on traditional wineries. We also pick small wineries producing their wines in particular terroir that characterises the originality of the grapes,” says Anton Belochkin, head sommelier of ThinkWine.
Belochkin clarifies that ThinkWine categorises its wines according to whether they are natural, organic, biodynamic or conventional. This strict method of separation makes the usually vague spectrum of natural wine much clearer for true wine nerds.
2/F, LL Tower, 2 Shelley Street, Central.
4. Vivant
Vivant – meaning “alive” in French – opened its doors in 2022 and boasts an intimate atmosphere and a dedication to showcasing wines of distinctive flavours that reflect their unique terroir.
Around 90 per cent of Vivant’s selection is low-intervention. Aside from prioritising wines from makers who embrace sustainable, organic or biodynamic farming practices, Vivant’s sommeliers also work closely with the culinary team to create harmonious pairings between the bistro’s neo-French cuisine and low-intervention wines.8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central.
5. Shady Acres
Shady Acres is the down-to-earth joint for Peel Street patrons who like to get rowdy at happy hour. It boasts an extensive natural wine list, including its very own house label “SHDY” by Unico Zelo, an Italian-inspired winery in southern Australia.“Our wine list is almost exclusively made up of small-scale artisanal producers where organic and sustainable farming practices [and production methods] tend to be the norm,” says Mike Watts, co-founder of Shady Acres, adding that about half of the venue’s wines have “distinctly ‘natty’ flavours, smells and colours”.
46 Peel Street, Central.
6. Blue Supreme
Since 2017, Blue Supreme has been known as Sheung Wan’s neighbourhood craft beer-centric gastropub, but it also has an interesting wine list, 90 per cent of which features natural and low-intervention wines, many of them from small-batch producers.
Compared with the other establishments on this list, Blue Supreme takes a more fun approach, focusing on alternative and more modern wines.
In recent months, it has expanded its wine offerings to include more pét-nats – natural sparkling wines made using 16th century techniques that pre-date those of champagne – and orange wines – also known as skin-contact white wine.21 Tung Street, Sheung Wan.
7. Crushed
Crushed, a new casual wine bar and shop hidden among the slopes of Sai Ying Pun, is one of Hong Kong’s strongest advocates for small-batch and New World wines.
“The Old World has had a light shone on it for ages, especially in a city like Hong Kong. It’s our responsibility to be a voice for the otherwise under-represented,” says Camille Glass, co-founder of Crushed, who adds that almost all of the bar’s wines are low-intervention.
Just this month, Crushed relocated across the street from its sister venture, Brut, a neighbourhood haunt with a similar concept but a heavier focus on food.
Shop A, 6-8 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun.
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